How to make a ribbon quilt
When I was trying to decide what to do with my old horse show ribbons, I saw some quilts a professional makes. I liked the idea of quilts quite a bit, and she is a beautiful sewer, no doubt about it–but I couldn’t really afford the cost of having someone else make the quilt for me. I wondered if I could do it and decided the only way to find out was… to do it. (View the finished quilts)
If you aren’t planning to use all your ribbons, you need to measure them (length and width) and determine your total fabric “area” for each color. Then look through pattern books and sites, and find a quilt that will work with your colors/available fabric amounts. If you sew regularly, you might consider getting a program like Electric Quilt, which lets you design your own quilts–it would be easier to test out the different patterns with your available colors.
I was planning to use all my ribbons, including the championship and year-ends, so I just cut off all the rosettes and started laying out designs on the floor. I wanted to use all the printed parts of the ribbons and wasn’t worried about the rest, so I rearranged until I found a pattern I liked.
Prepping the Ribbons
Mine were very, very dusty and very, very creased, so I washed them in cool water with a very mild soap. Then I quickly ran the iron over them to get out the worst creases and left them to dry overnight. They turned out beautifully.
However, if the iron is too hot I found it would rub off the printing. If you don’t need to wash your ribbons, you might want to try ironing with a thin damp cloth between the iron and the ribbons–that might help with the rub-off that I was seeing (of course, my ribbons were also old; I’m sure that didn’t help).
Pay attention to any very crooked ribbons–those will be hard to sew and, if you can, you should put them in the “don’t use” pile.
Prepping the Machine
I bought new needles for the machine–as thin as I could get them. I didn’t want to make large holes, because ribbons tend to show the holes and not close over. Regular all-purpose thread worked great for me. I ran a couple of test ribbons (pink and purple unprinted pieces I wasn’t planning on using) and adjusted the tension. I forget which way I had to adjust, but it wasn’t on the default setting. Also, while I tested, I found out the ribbons slide a bit while I sew. I didn’t want to pin them (the visible hole issue), so I found I had to hold the ribbons fairly tight while sewing them–that’s probably why I had to make so many adjustments to the thread tension.
Take your time testing, because once you figure out what works to get a nice seam, the rest of the quilt is EASY.
My pattern was a modified Courthouse Steps, so I was sewing straight line after straight line. It went very quickly. Every now and then I squared up my blocks, to make sure everything was the same size and would line up correctly. Once I had all nine blocks done, I sewed three together for a row, and then sewed all three rows together. Like an idiot, I put one row on upside down, so I had to rip the seam and sew it back again. Moral of the story: remember you’re dealing with printed fabrics and it does matter which way things face.
Backing and Binding
I wanted to back the quilt so I could type out my results and put them on the quilt as well. I used a thin batting and a heavy cotton material; in the future, I’d go with a heavy muslin and no batting. I did end up pinning the backing and batting in place so that it wouldn’t shift while I was sewing it down–I just made sure the pins went through the seams so the holes wouldn’t show on the front of the quilt. Instead of binding, I sewed right-sides-together and then turned the quilt inside (or rightside…whichever you like) out. I hand-sewed the opening. I like the look, but you might prefer to sew regularly and bind the quilt.
I am not quilting down the batting. Instead, I’m going to sew some tabs on the quilt to hang some of the rosettes. I figure the tabs will work in the same way “tying” a quilt works–they’ll be enough to keep the batting in place, but I won’t have to worry about quilting down the whole thing.
In some ways, I find quilting ribbons easier than regular fabric–or, at least, there’s less cutting involved. It takes a little more time to make sure everything is staying lined up and square, but otherwise it was straightforward.
The biggest problem was the thread tension–it could be great for a while, and then it would suddenly slip and the back of the seam would be loops and snags.
The needles also broke two or three times. However, keep in mind that I was using very thin needles–they weren’t made for sewing through something as heavy as ribbons. Changing needles is easy, and it was worth buying extra needles so that I’d have smaller holes along the seams.
My seam allowances were TINY–as close to the edge of the ribbon as I could get them. That’s hard to maintain, and takes concentration. But any bigger, and you start to lose printed material on the front.
Despite my best intentions, the ribbons aren’t always perfectly straight in the front. Sometimes the ribbons were crooked, and to get them in the quilt I had to turn the ribbon slightly for the straight seam. I’ve been debating whether it would be better to trim all the ribbons straight before starting, or if that would cause problems because some wouldn’t be as wide as others. My crookedness problem I was able to correct each time I squared up the blocks.
Metallic thread is evil. I had considered using it because it would match the print on the ribbons, but it was IMPOSSIBLE to work with. I could not get the thread tension right, and it would snag and pull every time. I’m just glad I figured that out before I got to the “to quilt the top or not” stage–it would have been a disaster if I’d tried top quilting with metallic thread.
Despite the problems, I really enjoyed making the quilt. It took about three days to make and looks fantastic hanging on the wall. I was worried it was going to be too “hard” or something, but, really, it was a straightforward job. The hardest part was setting the thread tension and then going slowly enough to keep everything straight–everything else was much the same as regular quilting.
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